The realm of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everyone. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. When 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one around see what each of the hoopla was with this drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Can Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any measure of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably going for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very inexpensive price. Handling is great also as soon as you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts an incredibly wide range of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for those that like to tinker, which means that this car should grow with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts on the bottom for that front and rear diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find several left empty. They could be employed to control chassis flex, but not with all the stock top deck; an optional one must be bought. The design is a lot like a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are easily accessible and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.
? Besides a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll even though the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when next to the edges in the chassis as you can. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I wanted a good servo to take care of the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow utilizing a number of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, however i do remember a method I used a while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the outer by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the final result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
About The TRACK
Just for this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I found myself heading there to perform a picture shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering around the D4 is quite amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from your parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This is, partly, thanks to the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish simply that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in change the angle in the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a little and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for that. I have done need to be a little bit creative using the install in the system on account of small space about the chassis, but overall it resolved great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it does require a little getting used to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the proper way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control once you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways using a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at below two or three inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you believe like you require more of something anything there’s a lot of items to adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile together with the kit setup plus it was only a point of a battery pack or two before I had been swinging the rear round the hairpins, throughout the carousel and forward and backward through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything fast. I did so, however, have an trouble with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept with it, trying to overcome the situation with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually take a look. In the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.